Although gambling is technically illegal in Miami, there are plenty of loopholes that allow all kinds of wagering. Gamblers can try their luck at offshore casinos or on shore at bingo, jai alai, card rooms, horse tracks, dog races, and Native American reservations.

Especially popular is Miccosukee Indian Gaming, 500 SW 177th Ave. (off S.R. 41, in West Miami on the outskirts of the Everglades; tel. 800/741-4600 or 305/222-4600), where a touch of Vegas meets West Miami. This tacky casino isn't Caesar's Palace, but you can play tab slots, high-speed bingo (watch out for the serious blue-haired players who will scoff if you make too much noise or if you win before they do), and even poker (with a $10 maximum pot). With more than 85,000 square feet of playing space, the complex even offers overnight accommodations for those who can't get enough of the thrill and don't want to make the hour-long trip back to downtown Miami. Take the Florida Turnpike South towards Florida City/Key West. Take the SW 8th Street Exit (#25) and turn left onto SW 8th Street. Drive for about 3 1/2 miles and then turn left onto Krome Avenue. You can't miss it--it's the only thing there!

Recently, many of Miami's sketchier gambling cruise operators have been shut down. The classiest and most legit gambling cruise still in business is the Casino Princesa, which docks behind the Hard Rock Cafe in Bayside Marketplace. This 200-foot, $15 million yacht has more than 200 slot machines, 32 tables, a restaurant, and four lounges in 10,000 square feet of gaming space on two decks. It's also a major bargain (unless, of course, you lose) at $10.95 per person. Ships sail for 4 1/2 hours from 12:30 to 5pm daily and also from 7:30pm to midnight on weekend nights. They will also pick you up at your hotel. Call tel. 305/379-5825 for updated schedules.